Dipping in Thermal Baths!

#TravelAdventures in Germany's Black forest area - a cultural shock or a spiritual experience?

“But how does it work?”

“Will there be a private space?

“Do I have to necessarily bare it all?”

Standing in a queue to enter Caracalla thermal baths in Baden Baden, one of the Europe’s largest spa town and in the Black forest region of Germany, I wasn’t able to wrap my head around the dress code requirement.

---

Coming from India where modesty is worshipped and your character is directly synonymous to percentage of your covered body parts, I felt uneasy. From stranger and family alike, I’ve been told multiple times to hide everything - shoulders, neck, legs, waist - and avoid attracting attention. As a complying Indian girl, a swimsuit (one-piece, thighs covered, no plunging neckline et al) is my Lakshman-rekha. I couldn’t cross this line. Not now. Not today.

Fortunately, this place had a swimsuit area as well. We booked tickets for a 3-hours slot, and soon, we were standing outside our first pool. The thermal baths tradition i.e. communal bathing in natural spring water dates back to the Roman empire. In the first century BC, Romans discovered that natural hot water with high mineral content had healing properties, and thereby extensively built them. It also functioned as a place to socialize and relax. Although the original Roman baths serve only as archaeological sites now, they did kick off a tradition of relaxation through water.

In these thermal baths, there are usually multiple pools with temperatures ranging from 38 degrees to a chilly 18. The idea is to stay in a thermal pool for 20min or so and then quickly take a cold shower or dip in a cold pool to complete one cycle (and reset your body to enter a warm pool again).The cold plunge, though alarming at first, turned out to my most favorite dip. Or so I thought until I moved to the outdoor pools.

While the indoor area was under a big beautiful dome with Romanesque architecture, the outdoors under a overcast sky greeted us with crisp air. Once outside, the first thing I noticed was a human whirlpool. Why were we seeing the same people taking circles again and again? Were they swimming in there?

And soon, I knew why. The whole pool was a current which propelled your body with a pace right enough to make you feel free and controlled at the same time. Having had our share of fun, we moved to the other section of the pool which was a rock grotto with a waterfall. There were water jets lined besides it to provide relaxation for your back and shoulder area. After voluntarily tiring ourselves out, we decided to go to cold water pool once again before going back to our hotel.

Back in our room, I decided to research about nudity in spas (and in general as well). After all, we were in the area for 2 more days. Shouldn’t I at least know why am I so uncomfortable when the rest of the world seems to be pretty okay with it?

Turns out that the concept was as alien to Americans and Australians as it was for me. I read about people’s experiences and how did they overcome their awkwardness. Apparently, it’s all in the head. Nobody cares. I learnt that for most of European, sexuality and nudity are entirely different thing. You can be naked without feeling immoral about it. I read about how it’s not a spa etiquette to stare. I dozed off soon dreaming (or were they nightmares) about naked people taking over the world. It was apocalyptic.

---

I woke up with relief seeing clothed people in our breakfast area. Next on our itinerary was Freiburg – a university town, and a lake, Titisee, both of which were in the southern part of Black forest. Legend has it that Romans named Black forest so since it was so dense that light couldn’t reach the ground. Even if you have not been to this area, there’s a high likelihood that you’ve read stories of Grimm Brothers which ranged from - Hansel and Gretel, Rapunzel, and Sleeping Beauty to name a few – all inspired from this mysterious land.

On the way back, the internet suggested us to take B500 road or it’s more romantic German name Schwarzwaldhochstrasse. Internet is always right. Turns and Twists abound with rolling hills and spectacular scenery made me surrender to the nature fully. After making a quick stopover to eat a black forest cake (yes, the popular cake has its origins here), and spotting a rainbow, our second day ended. Though, my research about spas hadn’t ended.

---

Carl Sagan famously once said that we’re all made of star stuff. Essentially, we (you and me) are all made of the same elements. We come from dust and we dissolve into one. Then why did the idea of looking and being looked at in its rawest form irk me?

For as long as I could remember, like so many of us, I’ve found faults with my body. I was never overweight, but was always chubby. I had an issue with how wide my hips were. My arms were never toned. This along with my cultural conditioning made clothes my safe haven.

As the last leg of our trip approached - backed up with a lot of research and a bit of self-exploration - was I ready to let my guards down? But did I need to go the full monty (pun intended) now itself?

I opened my Amazon app and ordered a swimsuit (still modest) which I had been eyeing for long. It had been in my cart, but my newly discovered awareness pushed me to order it. Sitting in the car, I thought about visiting the spas once again during winters. May be I’ll go to the nude spa then. Maybe not.